Chenin Blanc

Although the quality of chenin blancs has undoubtedly improved

(as well as being sometimes pushed too far with excessive ripeness,

sugar and oak), quantity has fallen drastically. Chenin blanc used to occupy a third of the Cape vineyard, but is now at ­little more than 18%.

But no other variety has as large a ­proportion of old vines - many 40 years old at least - giving low crops, the intensity and finesse of which wine-lovers should happily pay a premium for and, incidentally, help to save such vineyards from ruthless, ­axe-­wielding accountants.

If the top end of chenin blanc production offers glory, the lower end offers real value. For less than R30 you can find decently made, fresh and fruity chenin blancs from the co-ops and former co-ops (Perdeberg, Boland, Swartland and Riebeek, for example) that are ­generally better and more interesting than anything else at the price.

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