Javier Ausás, chief winemaker of Vega-Sicilia, describes his 2007 Unico thus – ‘it’s not a wine, it’s a miracle’!
This is not far from the truth considering how challenging the 2007 vintage was in his beloved region of Ribera del Duero. You will know that great wineries make great wines in the most combative conditions – this is what sets them apart. Vega-Sicilia is Spain’s greatest win and so I expected to taste a stunning wine at the launch of this iconic estate’s new releases and I was not disappointed. Unico is undoubtedly a more forward proposition than other recent releases. This is usually the case in cooler, rainy years. But Vega still sports aromatic complexity that the Bordelais would kill for with exceptional detail and suave delivery. This is not a big wine but a mellow, long, profound Unico with calmness and control at its core. The tannins are powdery and fit and show no signs of closing down the wine, in fact they almost seem to urge it forwards. The fruit is typically noble and dark but there is no excess alcohol or brawn which can usually be detected in youthful Unico. In short, this is a wine for relatively early drinking, which will reward connoisseurs of this estate. It is also a wine to charm those of you who might not have encountered Vega-Sicilia before on account of its genial welcome and elegant composure. (2020 – 2030)
Score: 18.5+Matthew Jukes, Matthew Jukes’ Blog, March 2015